About two months ago, I received a WhatsApp message from writer Ridzwan Rahim asking if I would be interested in witnessing him attempt a solo marathon swim from Pulau Redang to Pulau Lang Tengah in Terengganu on July 14.
He had already completed three swims previously as part of his ‘Terengganu Four Swims’ – Pulau Perhentian to the mainland (2021), Pulau Redang to the mainland (2023), and Pulau Lang Tengah to Pulau Perhentian in March this year.
The Marathon Swimmers Federation has ratified Ridzwan’s first two swims, while the third one is awaiting ratification.
Ridzwan said he was finalising the team, which included former swimming prodigy Tania Bugo as an observer, several supporters, swimmers, and his usual crew. He also had saved two slots for the media.
I said yes to the trip as I would have front-row seat to history being made. No one had ever swum from Pulau Redang to Pulau Lang Tengah. Ridzwan is also the first person to swim from the other three locations.
When it was time to go, the home minister took a long hard look at my two medium-sized bags, including one which contained a laptop, and exclaimed: “You sure you have everything?”
I bravely replied: “Of course, I planned it perfectly!” But I didn’t double-check, and left my toothpaste, coffee, and a T-shirt behind. I would also go without socks for a day!
The trip to Kem Damai Besut in Besut in the early hours of July 12 was cold. It had been raining.
Those driving from the Klang Valley met at the Bentong R&R before convoying to the Temerloh R&R for breakfast. Here’s a tip – although the ‘nasi lemak bungkus’ looks similar, they don’t taste the same. The ones at the first stall were tasty. The ones at the end weren’t. Guess which one I took?
Shannon Teoh of Singapore’s Straits Times dug into a hearty plate of ikan patin tempoyak, while others chose the nasi goreng. Both were delicious.
“I don’t normally eat breakfast, but I couldn’t resist the ikan patin. And since we are in Temerloh, I gave in to temptation,” said Teoh, in between spoonfuls of rice.
From Temerloh, we headed straight to Besut, about four-and-a-half hours away.
Kem Damai Besut, on the grounds of Damai Beach Resort, offers a picturesque view of Pulau Rhu, 2.5km away, sandy beaches, and space for up to 1,000 campers.
“But the most we ever had were 700 people,” said Hafizuddin Amlin, whose parents, Amlin Yacoob and Mariam Awg Besar, own the beach resort.
Hafizuddin, or Pie, added: “We also have rooms for those who don’t want to stay outdoors.
“Our restaurant is open to outsiders for lunch – something we had to do after the Covid-19 pandemic.
“Thankfully, we have become popular for our food.”
Indeed, during the three-night stay, we were served some of the most delicious meals, with daging singgang (beef cooked in a soup infused with tamarind, ginger, garlic, onion, and other spices) being the not-to-be-missed option.
Jo-Ee Gwee, one of the support swimmers, fell in love with the kambing bakar (roast lamb). The fish, prawns, and squid were just as delicious – I probably put on weight during the trip!
Mariam is a self-taught cook and said the recipes are hers and those she learnt from her mother. I’m craving her cooking as I write this!
ADVENTURE TIME
As part of Ridzwan’s preparation for the marathon swim, he planned a night swim from Kem Damai Besut to Pulau Rhu. For many in his support team, including Tania, it was their first time swimming at night.
Waiting on the beach, we could see the boats heading out, and little bobs of lights – some swimmers had lights on their swimming caps, while others had lights attached to tow floats.
The swim lasted nearly three hours and got the thumbs-up from all the participants.
Despite the hectic and tiring day, everyone was up bright and early, as we wanted to go hiking. Unfortunately, an open burning near the trail meant we couldn’t go, so we opted for a hearty nasi dagang for breakfast!
Then, it was time to face my fear of heights with an attempt at the flying fox, and abseiling down the water tower.
The climb up the tower was breathtaking – literally. I had to wait a few minutes before attempting my first-ever flying fox. Once completed, it was another climb – it was just as hard as the first.
Now, abseiling down the water tower wasn’t difficult. I say that despite hesitating to ‘let go’ for a few minutes.
How scared was I? My mother-in-law who saw the video I sent to the home minister, burst out laughing, saying: “Why is he scared? It’s not that high! Faster lah.”
Well, I finally made it down and after that session with Pie, I wouldn’t mind doing it again one day.
We had it free and easy for the rest of the afternoon.
WITNESSING HISTORY
After more good food and some rest, we headed to Pantai Penarik, where we planned to board the boats. We departed the jetty just after midnight, heading to Pulau Redang.
Ridzwan started his swim at 1.30am. Thankfully, the sea was as calm as a lake. It was so smooth, that eventually, several of us on the boat, dozed off!
I was awakened around 5.30am by the smell of food! Before me, on a portable stove, was a pot with several cuttlefish in a broth.
Using the broth, I made the best Maggi curry in a cup I have ever tasted – nothing could beat the fresh air of the South China Sea and fresh seafood.
We were nearing the end of the swim as Ridzwan was less than 2km from the shore. However, he had to delay his finish as it was too dark and unsafe for the boats to head to the jetty. He finally completed the swim in six hours, seven minutes, and 22 seconds.
The relief on his face when he reached the shore was clear.
Amazingly, even after his marathon swim, early the next morning, Ridzwan joined several of us at the cafe to watch the Euro 2024 final between Spain and England.
On the way back to the Klang Valley, we stopped at a Mitsubishi outlet in Kuala Terengganu where Ridzwan spoke to the staff about his exploits.
It was an enjoyable trip, as I got to meet and interview some amazing people.
Thank you, Terengganu.
